How to Propagate (Root) Succulents with Rooting Hormone: Part 3

Welcome to HealthyHousePlants.com, where we teach you all about gardening indoors. If you’d like to support my show and get help growing your houseplants, check out my Patreon below. Today, I’m excited to share the third video in our series on rooting succulents from cuttings and growing new plants.

It’s been a while since we started rooting these succulents, so I’m thrilled to reveal the results. In the previous video, some of these cuttings were planted, and there are also a few new ones. I was careful not to overwater them, as succulents can die quickly from too much moisture. However, it’s tricky because, during the rooting process, those baby roots need to stay hydrated. Unfortunately, a few didn’t make it due to under-watering, so I replaced them with new cuttings.

After propagating your succulents, as shown in the previous videos, I recommend using a moisture meter or your finger to check the soil. The soil should still be slightly damp before watering again, as this prevents the cuttings from drying out. However, as always, err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering when growing succulents indoors. While some of the cuttings thrived, others with more delicate roots didn’t make it. That’s why I added new ones to ensure I had plenty to show you today.

Now, let’s reveal what’s happened with these roots. When working with rooted cuttings, avoid pulling on them. Instead, gently dislodge the entire plant from the soil by getting underneath it. The rooting medium I used, which I detailed in a previous video, is a homemade cactus and succulent mix. This is important when transplanting these cuttings. Before repotting, water the plants several hours in advance to reduce the shock they may experience during the process.

As I carefully examine the roots, some cuttings have developed healthy roots, while others have not. For those without roots, I’ll reapply rooting hormone and try again. It’s normal to have varying success rates, which is why it’s essential to propagate multiple cuttings at once.

Once I’ve identified the cuttings with strong roots, I’ll transplant them into appropriately sized pots. It’s crucial not to over-pot succulents, as too much soil can lead to moisture retention and root rot. I’ll be using small terracotta pots, which are ideal for succulents because they allow the soil to dry out quickly.

When repotting, make sure the soil is moist, but not too wet. This ensures that the soil doesn’t settle too much after watering, which could cause the plant to sit too low in the pot and become susceptible to root rot. For the succulents I’m repotting today, I won’t water them immediately after planting since the soil is already moist.

After potting, I’ll place the succulents back in their original location to minimize transplant shock. Once they start showing new growth, I’ll feed them with a cactus and succulent fertilizer. I did add a small amount of fertilizer during the initial watering, but I’ll hold off on a full feeding until they’ve established themselves. As winter approaches, I’ll reduce fertilization until early spring.

We’ll check back in on these succulents to see how they’re progressing. Thank you for stopping by today! Please leave any comments about indoor gardening tutorials you’d like to see. Remember to like, comment, subscribe, and share this video, and hit the bell if you’d like to be notified when new videos are released.

Ardisia Plant:  Your Questions Answered

What kind of light does Ardisia need?

Ardisia thrives in medium to bright light. It can tolerate low light levels, but this may result in stunted growth, faded leaves, and leaf drop. Full-spectrum lighting is beneficial, especially during winter months. Avoid direct sunlight, particularly near hot western or southern windows, as this can burn the foliage and reduce humidity levels.

How often should I water my Ardisia plant?

Water Ardisia enough to keep the soil moist but not wet. Water when the top two to three inches of soil are dry, as indicated by a moisture meter reading of four. Smaller plants may need watering when the first one to two inches of soil have dried out. Always use warm water.

What type of fertilizer is best for Ardisia?

Fertilize Ardisia monthly from spring through fall using an organic fertilizer. Avoid chemical fertilizers as they can cause crispy leaf edges and brown tips. Do not fertilize in winter when growth slows. Top dress with worm compost every three months to provide extra micronutrients.

How can I maintain the proper humidity for Ardisia?

Ardisia prefers humidity levels between 45% to 55%. If humidity is too low, the plant may suffer from browning leaf tips or leaf drop. Use a hygrometer to monitor levels and consider using a humidity tray, misting the plant, or using a humidifier to increase humidity. Grouping plants together can also help maintain higher humidity.

What temperature range is ideal for Ardisia?

Ardisia thrives in temperatures between 65°F and 80°F, and can tolerate up to 85°F. It can manage temperatures as low as 60°F for short periods, but may show signs of stress if temperatures drop lower. Avoid placing the plant in drafty areas or near forced air vents.

When and how should I repot my Ardisia plant?

Repot Ardisia when the plant exceeds the two-thirds plant to one-third pot ratio. This plant is comfortable in a slightly tight pot, so repotting isn’t urgent. When repotting, move up to the next pot size, not too much larger.

Does Ardisia require pruning?

Ardisia doesn’t need much pruning. You can prune to keep the plant bushy by trimming just above a stem node. The plant naturally grows bushy, so it doesn’t require constant pinching and pruning.

What pests and diseases affect Ardisia?

Root rot can occur if Ardisia is overwatered. Scale can also be a problem, but it can be prevented with neem oil or treated with 91% isopropyl alcohol. A well-cared-for Ardisia is generally less likely to suffer from pests and diseases.

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